Basic Ham Gear For Getting into HF

 Amateur radio is just that - amateur.  We make our own gear, make our own equipment, troubleshoot our own problems, and work with whatever we've got. 

As you press forward, over time you're going to acquire some gear and you're going to need some more.  I'm a fan of Amazon Prime for some things, and also Ebay.  I use Amazon for where price isn't an issue, and I need something quickly and want it to work for me reliably, I use Ebay where something might be very hard to find, discontinued, or extremely expensive where buying used isn't going to be an issue. 

It is the Lord's counsel that we should always be thrifty and practice provident living, so you may get some equipment and later upgrade to a better version - the goal is going to be to get what you need so you can do what you need to.  Personally I dislike borrowing any tools only because I never know if I'll finish a project anytime soon, so I slowly acquire gear over time.  However, if you have an issue such as weather, or something gets blown down by a storm, or your kids or neighbors trip over a line, you'll want the tools to repair your own gear on hand - mine were slowly acquired over several years.

So, aside from individual projects with tools needed for the prjects, here's just a list of equipment you may acquire over time: 

Multimeter - this is used for testing electrical circuits, continuity, battery charges, resistance - at some point you will be using this and need one.  These can be bought on Amazon (or Ebay) and start as low as $8.00.  You'll be using this if you do anything beyond buying a handheld from the factory.

 Wire stripping, cutting, and crimping tool - these become a real heaven-sent work-saver when you're working on any project where you're stripping, cutting or crimping.  You just put the wire across the top, and squeeze and voila - you have a perfectly stripped wire at exactly the right length with one swift move, no more twisting or trying to pull the insulation or outer sheath off or even accidentally cutting through the wire (this isn't what you use for coax).  These start around $22, not a high priority item, but when you start working on multiple projects, I don't want to be without mine.  You'll obviously want regular wire-cutters as well.

Coax crimping tool (big blue thing) - you're going to be using this to put connectors onto your coax, like a PL-259.   You'll have to see Youtube or get a ham to show you how to use it.

Coax cutting tool (small grey thing) - you'll be using this to strip your coax outer layer before you put your connectors on it.  You'll probably need someone to show you how to use it or you can go on Youtube and look up how to use it.

 These are often sold together in kits, sometimes with connectors like shown here, the kits run about $22 on Amazon.  The small blue pliers I use for trimming up cuts.

 EMF detector - these are useful when trying to pin down any interference within your home or on your vehicle or stray emissions, or even make sure your RFI exposure / emissions within your equipment is within limits.  These can run about $30 on Amazon.

Soldering iron - perhaps the most needed item, you'll need that and some solder.  Ultimately you'll be having to hold multiple pieces together, so if you can get a kit that comes with arms that will hold things together, definitely go for it.  Mine allows me to control the temperature of the iron as well.  Simple kits start around $10, and ones with a few accessories like this one shown can run around $40.

Heat gun - for a lot of your connectors, making them waterproof, you'll want shrink-wrap tubing or your connectors will come with it for outdoor applications.  These start around $16 on Amazon 

Network analyzer - these can get expensive, but you can't get into HF without them, but this is the entry-level-just-as-good basic version, the Nano VNA (Vector Network Analyzer) - you'll learn about these between your General and Amateur Extra Licenses, this one comes with an SMA connector, you'll need to purchase an SMA to SO239 connector (also available on Amazon or Ebay).  Make sure it tests the bands you're going to be woking with - 80M is going to be in the 3MHz range and if you use it up to the UHF spectrum, you'll need one that goes up to the 500's MHz - these start around $40 on Amazon and ebay, keep an eye out for deals.  This does not have a fancy protective case, it is a circuit-board, screen, and adapter ports - it was specifically designed to be inexpensive for hams and other hobbyists to get into because the item after this is spendy.

"Rigexpert" antenna analyzer - if you'll be doing this at all for any extended period of time, this is much nicer to have than the Nano VNA.  However, again, check the bands it works on, a lot of these only work on HF or a limited section of the bands.  I watched for months on eBay until I found one that was for $200.00 used that does all HF, VHF and UHF bands, they run $900+.  Again, you'll learn about these in your General and Amateur Extra but definitely worthwhile to have, a very good investment. 

BUTANE TORCH - if the electricity goes out, soldering with electricity isn't going to be much of an option.  These can be used for soldering in the field with a bit of practice and skill.  A pair of them can run about $15 on Amazon. 

Other items: 

Folding tables - if you're out making your own command station, or doing a field day, a folding table can be really nice that you can pack up and take with you, along with some folding chairs.  If you can get a canopy, I recommend it.  

Coax connectors - PL259, SO239, BNC, SMA - whatever you're using, pay attention, they are not all the same, some are meant for crimping, others are made for soldering only, some are made for thicker cables, others for thinner cables - if you're working on HF at all, having a bag of these is pretty nice, can be bought on Amazon.

Electrical connectors - multi-packs - available from Home Depot, for working on your car electrical system, making pig-tails, you name it. Make sure it's the right gauges and sizes. 

Electrical tape - you'll be using this, multi-colored tape is nice because it makes it easier to identify components in the dark or rain.

Spare fuses - you'll want spare fuses that go with any of your gear and match them and keep them with your gear. 

Zip ties - small and large - you'll be using these. 

Silicone tape - self-sealing, also can be used for weatherproofing connections between cables or out in the elements. 

Dielectric grease - can be used to improve connections where there's been moisture or light corrosion, if you have a rough connection, do not get it on the center of your coax, some hams report having had a ton of noise from their system with this, fine on the outer connections but keep it from the center. 

At any rate, these are just some of the tools you'll run into needing or using over time, keep an eye out, say a prayer, and the Lord will bless you.  

Introduction to Basic Emergency Communications

 Completely new to emergency communications? 

SIGNAL REPORTS - How Are You Heard? How Do You Hear?

Knowing how others are hearing you is critical to amateur radio operations.   You get this information through a "signal report" - you can request one, ("Can I get a signal report?") or you may just be given one as part of a club/operation protocol. 

Signal reports follow the RST format:

• Readability
• Strength
• Tone (for CW or morse code only, we do not use morse code so it will not be covered here)

Readability is given on a 1 - 5 scale as follows: 

1 - Unreadable

2 - Barely readable, occasional words distinguishable 

3 - Readable with considerable difficulty

4 - Readable with practically no difficulty 

5 - Perfectly readable 

Strength is given on a 1-9 scale as follows: 

1  - Faint signals, barely perceptible

2 - Very weak signals

3 - Weak signals

4 - Fair signals

5 - Fairly good signals 

6 - Good signals 

7 - Moderately strong signals 

8 - Strong signals

9 - Extremely strong signals 

An exchange regarding a signal report can go as follows: 

"Can I get a signal report?"

"Roger, I have you at 5, 9" meaning "perfectly readable and extremely strong signals". 

Or "You're coming in at about a 4, 6" meaning "Readable with practically no difficulty, good signals".

On HF the "S" (signal strength) portion of the report is tied to your S-meter. 

The S-meter is an instrument present on the majority of radio receivers that measures the strength of the signal that is being received, and uses unit of measurement called the S-point.

S-points go from S1 to S9 and each S-point is defined as a 6 dB change in signal strength. This means that each time the voltage is halved (–6 dB) the signal strength decreases by one point. S9 is already a very strong signal, but to describe larger signals, steps of 10 dB are used instead of 6 dB, noted "S9+20" meaning 20 dB above S9.

If they are at 20 over you would still report their signal as a "9", so perfectly readable with a +30  signal would be like "You're coming through at 5 9" ("five nine) or "I have you at a 5 9"

Here's a breakdown for the technical minded  people: 

S-points for frequencies below 30 MHz:

Signal strength	Relative intensity	Received voltage		Received power (Zc = 50 Ω)
S1	–48 dB	0.20 μV	–14 dBμV	790 aW	–121 dBm
S2	–42 dB	0.40 μV	–8 dBμV	3.2 fW	–115 dBm
S3	–36 dB	0.79 μV	–2 dBμV	13 fW	–109 dBm
S4	–30 dB	1.6 μV	4 dBμV	50 fW	–103 dBm
S5	–24 dB	3.2 μV	10 dBμV	200 fW	–97 dBm
S6	–18 dB	6.3 μV	16 dBμV	790 fW	–91 dBm
S7	–12 dB	13 μV	22 dBμV	3.2 pW	–85 dBm
S8	–6 dB	25 μV	28 dBμV	13 pW	–79 dBm
S9	0 dB	50 μV	34 dBμV	50 pW	–73 dBm
S9+10	10 dB	160 μV	44 dBμV	500 pW	–63 dBm
S9+20	20 dB	500 μV	54 dBμV	5.0 nW	–53 dBm
S9+30	30 dB	1.6 mV	64 dBμV	50 nW	–43 dBm
S9+40	40 dB	5.0 mV	74 dBμV	500 nW	–33 dBm
S9+50	50 dB	16 mV	84 dBμV	5.0 μW	–23 dBm
S9+60	60 dB	50 mV	94 dBμV	50 μW	–13 dBm

You may hear people refer to you being "just above the noise threshold."  There is always noise on HF that has to be sorted through, so in order to be heard, your signal has to be stronger than the ambient noise of the atmosphere/whatever else the other radio is picking up.  

In this picture, 1 is the noise threshold or the "weeds" as some people call it, 2 is the signal strength on the S-meter at about 6.2 - this is a noisy day and a noisy band, so in order to communicate you'll have to be putting out a really strong signal and they will have to have a good receiver/antenna and filter.

In this picture, 1 is the noise threshold, or noise "floor" (a quiet day), 2 is the signal from the station, and 3 is that it is coming in at "20 over" (This is 670AM from Boise but this was done to show you what we are looking at).  

For FM or VHF reports  are given in terms of "quieting."  "Full quieting" means there is no other noise coming in with your voice, you sound like you're speaking directly into the radio with no static or any distortion. 

The S-meters on VHF radios are not as accurate across all equipment as they are on the HF equipment, so giving a meter reading is ultimately not very informative.  

This is the S-meter on one of the Baofengs - not a whole lot of information other than for the user to look at the meter and see whether or not they are coming through full strength or a partial signal.  

You may hear people refer to having "a bit of sizzle" or "some bacon" on your signal (slang) referring to having some static. 

Signal reports typically aren't given or asked for over repeaters, if you can hit the repeater, others are hearing you, and you will know you are hitting the repeater if you hear the "ker chunk" after you release the mic, with repeaters, you're either getting in or you're not. 

When communicating with others, it is useful to let them know how they are coming through, as well as understand how you are coming through to them.  Remember, propagation can be fickle, you can have different propagation over different areas for different reasons (terrain, electrical grid, interference).  

Learing to Use Your* Radio (That's not a Baofeng UV5R)

Not a Baofeng

There are only a few settings on a ham radio that you need to know to make it work and use it on the VHF and UHF bands  

These may have different buttons or slightly different names on different radios, but the principles are the same.  To learn your radio,  simply google YouTube videos on how to use your radio,  be it Yaesu, Alinco, Kenwood, Icom, Lincoln, Anytone, etc.  Usually, someone will have produced a video showing you how to operate it (I don't have every radio out there, so there's a possibility that some radios don't have a video about them.  If that's the case and you're feeling ambitious...you can make a YouTube video on how to use your particular radio, you may have to just refer to the manual in such cases).

It helps to Google the owners manual and print it out and read it.  You want to print it out and have a hard-copy because in a disaster, you may need it and won't be able to look it up on the internet.  It also helps to practice, practice, practice with it, at least weekly with the stake. Take the time to read your owner's manual.  You are learning an entirely new skill-set (we all are), it takes some time and practice, there's no way around that, but with a bit of diligence you will get it pretty quickly.

If you're really confused and feel your radio is a real mess and you just need to start over,  look up how to reset or restore it in the manual.  This will restore factory settings and you can start over.

Basics: 

VFO -  Variable Frequency  Operation,  or being able to simply adjust the frequency up or down or enter the frequency in the keypad.  (The frequency is variable, changeable, adjustable - VFO).

Memory/Channel - instead of adjusting the frequency you have frequencies assigned to channels, like on the TV or your car stereo.  If a radio is in memory/channel mode, you can only switch between preprogrammed  channels.  You'll need to switch back to VFO (on many radios this is a "V/M" button) if you wish to tune to frequencies not in your memory channels.  Refer to your owner's manual on how to tell if your radio is in channel or VFO mode.

Shift -  When you're using a repeater, you can't transmit on the same frequency that the repeater is broadcasting on. Radios come with a feature that will shift the frequency up or down when you key the mic. You can set it to be positive (up)  or negative (down)  or off. For simplex, or radio to radio, you'll want it off. For repeater operation you'll want it up or down depending on the repeater (see Step 2, getting tuned in).  Some radios call this "repeat mode" others call it SFT-D, you will have to look in your radio manual to know how they decided to label it in yours.

Offset - how much of a shift you want when you have shift turned on.  For VHF this is usually 0.6MHz.  For UHF it is usually 5.0MHz. You do not need to change it to 0.00 if you wish to operate in simplex mode, just turn the shift off. Then when you go to use a repeater, just turn the shift to positive or negative, up or down, as you need to operate a particular repeater.

Tone - the tone needed to "unlock" the repeater. Often called CTCS or  Continuous Tone Coded Squelch, or PL  for Private Line. For more information on repeater operations, see this entry: https://ontariostakeerc.blogspot.com/2022/10/ham-radio-basics-repeaters-and-radio.html

Power - Whether your radio is operating at high or low power. Some radios you can actually set how many watts you wish to put out. Most simply have "low" or "high," or "low," "medium," and "high."   For simplex operations, you're probably going to want to operate at higher power.  For repeater operations you may be able to operate on medium or low, you'll have to test if you are activating the repeater.   Lower power conserves your batteries which can be critical in a disaster.  When I'm mobile in my vehicle on the radio, I usually have my power set to "high" if I'm headed any significant distance from the repeater.

Squelch -  This blocks out unwanted static or interference. If you have it too high you may not hear anybody.. If you're operating simplex ex and you're trying to hear other people on a handheld some distance away, you're going to want to turn this down. I've found for my radios having it turned between 1 and 4 usually works to keep the noise down while still allowing me to hear other people.

A\B -  Most radios come with dual channels meaning you can have 2 channels/frequencies on the screen at once. If you're set to talk on the "B" channel/frequency, but are looking at the "A" channel/frequency, you may wonder why nobody can hear you.  

It took me a while to learn my radios, and I'm nowhere near knowing all of the features on them all.  I just have most of the basics down that allow me to operate within the stake and a bit for fun.  Again, there isn't any substitute for diligence, perseverance or repetition, but if you ask Heavenly Father for some help and keep at it, you will get it, and this should get you started.  Join us on the weekly nets and keep practicing!

Emergency Prep: Communications Checklist

The following is a list of supplies / prep you'll want to take/have/get for your family to be ready for an emergency involving communications.   I recommend working on at least one of these a week if you're able to,  and you'll be set in no time - remember to consult with the Lord,  and never run faster than you are able to. 

1. Radios - charged and ready to go in home where all family members can get them? (Including knowing how to use them? )

2. Emergency charging equipment - car charger or solar panels with attachments for your radios - accessible and known how to use?  (+spares?)

3. Battery pack for charging - spare batteries for radio or portable power pack your wall chargers can plug into? 

4. Antennas - spares? 

5.  Owners manual for radio,  printed out and accessible?

6. List of frequencies for stake, repeaters,  and EMS printed out? (See right side of blog).

7. Message traffic forms (stack of them - I have 20-50),  printed out?  (See right side of blog).

8.  Binder for keeping organized plus notebooks with paper? 

9.  Writing utensils? (Plenty?) 

10. 72 hour grab/go kits ready with meds, glasses, sleeping, water,  clothes,  misc? 

11. Earphones for radio?  (Can be nice for discretion or in a noisy environment).

12. Backpack to carry all this in easily accessible in one grab? 

13. Anything else?  (James 1:5; let me know!)

14. Keep going! But if ye are prepared,  ye shall not fear.